Bicycle Safety Check

     By going through this series of inspections you will be able to expose any major mechanical problems that may exist with your bicycle. While not required before every ride, it is a good check to perform periodically between services, or if your bicycle has been stored for a period of time.

Tyres and Tubes

• Inflate tyres to the recommended pressure marked on the sidewall of the tire.
• Visually inspect the tyres. Look for cuts or cracks in the tread of the tyre, excessive wear where the casing of the tyre may be showing through, irregular bulges and glass embedded in the rubber.
• Inspect the side walls of the tyre for cuts, broken threads in the casing, cracks, or wear marks from rubbing by a brake pad.

Wheels and rims

• Spin the wheels. The wheels should track straight and true: sight the rim next to a brake pad to give a point of reference, a minor 1 or 2 mm movement is acceptable.
• Grab the spokes in adjacent pairs and squeeze, working your way around the wheel. The spokes should be nearly uniform in tension as you work around the wheel. Differences in tension from one side of the wheel to another are normal, so long as the wheel tracks straight. If you note any broken spokes have them replaced by a qualified bicycle mechanic.
• Gently hold the rim at the top and attempt to move it side to side. There should be no play or loose feeling. Any play indicates a loose hub or bad bearing that should be addressed by a qualified bicycle mechanic.
• Release and reengage the quick release skewers. When tightening the skewer it should be tight enough so that resistance is felt at the perpendicular position. If the skewer requires more tension than this it is recommended it be replaced.

Cockpit

• Apply firm pressure downward, upward, rearwards, and forward to the handlebar. The bar should remain in the same position.
• Check the headset adjustment by rotating the handlebars parallel to the top tube with the front wheel on the ground and rocking back and forth. Turn the handlebars the other way and repeat. If there is play your headset is too loose, if there is a lot of drag or binding your headset is too tight.
• Standing in front of the bike grip the front wheel between your legs and attempt to turn the handlebars. The bars should not move independently of the front wheel.

Suspension Fork (if so equipped)

• Suspension forks vary widely in construction, design and performance. Visually inspect the fork for visual damage, cracks near the dropouts, and wear marks on the fork stanchions. Check for excessive play between the crown, stanchions and fork sliders. Look for leaking oil or fluid. Any problems in these areas can be an indication it is time for a fork rebuild or replacement.

Brake Check

• Apply the front brake and push forward on the handlebar, the brake lever should operate smoothly with a predictable feel. The brake pads should engage the rim at about a quarter to half of the lever pull, and the lever should not bottom out against the bar no matter how hard you squeeze it. As you push forward on the bar the rear wheel should lift off the ground. Continue to squeeze the brake lever, slowly releasing pressure, at some point the wheel should begin to roll, smoothly without grabbing or chatter. Release the front brake and check that the lever quickly returns without drag. If slow to return this could be a bent or dirty cable.
• Apply the rear brake and push forward on the handlebar; the brake lever should operate smoothly with a predictable feel. The brake pads should engage the rim at about a quarter to half of the lever pull, and the lever should not bottom out against the bar no matter how hard you squeeze it. As you push forward on the handlebar the rear wheel should skid gently on the ground. Pull back on the handlebar and the front wheel should lift off the ground. Continue to squeeze the brake lever, slowly releasing pressure, at some point the wheel should begin to roll, smoothly without grabbing or chatter. Release the rear brake and check that the lever quickly returns without drag. This test can indicate a bad or dirty cable.

Rim Brake Inspection (if so equipped)

• Lift and spin each wheel in turn. Sight along the brake pad in reference to the rim. The pad should not rub the rim.
• Visually inspect the brake pad surface. Look for glazing (shiny spots), embedded rocks or particles of metal, or excessive and uneven wear. Glazing can be removed with a wire brush or file. Embedded particles can be picked out with an awl or tweezers. Uneven pads or worn pads should be replaced.
• Activate and release the brake lever, the rim should be centered horizontally between the pads and the pads should be centered vertically on the.
• Inspect the rims for deep gouges or grooves. If your rims are equipped with a wear indicator check it now.  Generally a wear indicator is an indentation punched into the brake track on the rim. When the rim has worn down to the level that the indentation is no longer visible, the wear limit has been reached and the wheels need to be replaced. Inspect the rims for glazing (this is generally a dark shiny varnish looking finish)

Disc Brake Inspection (if so equipped)

• Check the rotors for warping by lifting and spinning each wheel in turn, sight along the rotor next to the pads. The rotor should wobble less than 1mm side to side
• Remove the pads from the caliper and check for excessive or uneven wear, refer to manufacturers specifications for minimum allowable thicknesses.
• Visually inspect the heads of the rotor bolts for damage, stripping or corrosion, if you have a torque wrench it is a good idea to periodically check the rotor bolt torque.
• Visually inspect for leaking fluid (hydraulic systems), kinked or fraying cables (mechanical), and improperly routed cables.

Crank and Bottom Bracket

• Align the cranks so they are straight up and down. Weight the downward pedal by stepping on it and putting a fair amount of body weight on it, listen for creaks or pops. Rotate the pedals 180 degrees and repeat, weighting the other pedal, listen for creaks or pops. Any noise during this procedure can indicate the following: loose bottom bracket cups, dry bottom bracket threads (aluminum frames), dry pedal threads, loose crank arms on spindle, worn out bottom bracket bearings, or on full suspension frames a loose or worn out suspension pivot.
• Grasp the right pedal body in one hand and the right crank arm in the other, check for play. Repeat for the left side. Excessive play indicates worn or mis-adjusted pedal bearings.

Saddle and Seatpost

• Grasp the saddle in your hands and attempt to twist it back and forth, the saddle should not move.
• Weight the nose of the saddle, the saddle should not move.

Frame and Fork

• Visually inspect the frame, look for cracks in the paint that may indicate problems underneath. Problem areas to look at closely are all structural welds, bonds, or brazing (lugged bikes), pay extra attention at the seat tube/bottom bracket junction, and along the chainstays. Look for any wrinkling or flaring on the top tube and down tube about 3 inches from the head tube. Any indications of these problems need to be addressed by the dealer or a qualified frame builder.
• Sight along the fork from the top down, the fork blades should be even and symmetrical. On carbon forks run your fingers across the clear coat, feeling carefully for any breaks in the clear coating or epoxy. A qualified bicycle mechanic should inspect if any irregularities are found.
• Stand about a metre behind the bicycle and check that the rear derailleur hanger is perpendicular to the bottom bracket. If the hanger is bent or damaged see your bicycle dealer for an alignment (steel frames) or replacement (all others).

Drivetrain

• Inspect the chain for signs of rust or corrosion.
• Measure the wear of the chain using a chain wear tool. If the chain measures as worn both the chain and rear cogs need replacement and the chainrings should be inspected for wear.
• Visually inspect the cogs and chainrings for broken teeth or excessive wear. Take note that with most modern drivetrains it is common to have 1 or 2 highly machined teeth on each cog and chainring, these may look worn, damaged or broken. These teeth are normal.
• Check derailleur function by shifting to every ring and cog combination.